OUTDOOR SMOCK: WIP

 
 

WORK IN PROGRESS

In between the Francli rucksacks and aprons, the 'outdoor smock' project has been steadily ticking away in the background. In response to the brief we've been drafting patterns, toiling the designs and making fully functional samples to test out. After multiple toiles and 3 design evolutions, the final result is nearly ready to be revealed. 

Here is an insight into the development process...

 
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Toiling

Each garment starts in 2D. Sketched on paper, transferred to shapes on pattern paper and cut in calico. They are then brought together in a '3D drawing' process - stitching, fitting, un-stitching, pinning, re-stitching... Until the right fit has been realised and the paper patterns can be adjusted accordingly.

Sampling

Toiling is a fabric-hungry activity and we don't like making things that won't be used. So once a form and fit has been worked out in calico, a fully functional test-sample is made from the studio fabric stock. These are two samples that were tested and evolved to result in the final design:

 

 

SAMPLE 1

 
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Features:

  • Double collar / hood system
  • Collar wind guard
  • Raglan sleeve
  • Chest map pocket
  • x2 front drop pockets
  • Adjustable cuffs
  • Lined hood
  • Zipped side access
  • Dropped + reinforced back seat panel

Materials:

  • Re-appropriated army surplus tent + zips
  • Re-appropriated woollen blanket
  • British made waxed canvas
  • Wool off-cuts
 

Positives:

  • Flexibility in raglan sleeve
  • Secure and durable
  • Windproof and sheltering

Negatives:

  • Cumbersome hood
  • Bulky on the chest / hood claustrophobic
  • Excess fabric around waist
  • Heavy
  • Side zips too short
  • Pockets slow to access
  • Map pocket unneccessary
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SAMPLE 2

 
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Features:

  • Double collar / hood system
  • Collar wind guard
  • Magnetised hood closure
  • Raglan sleeve
  • x2 front drop pockets 
  • x 2 hip pockets
  • Adjustable waist
  • Adjustable cuffs
  • Adjustable lined hood
  • Zipped side access
  • Dropped + reinforced back seat panel

Materials:

  • British made waxed canvas
  • YKK zips
  • Vegetable tanned 2/3mm waxed shoulder leather
  • Brass hardware
  • Brass rivets
 

Positives:

  • Slimmer fit / adjustable waist
  • Flatter hood / collar neck 
  • Lighter fabric 
  • Extra reinforcement
  • Less exaggerated seat panel
  • Hip pockets intuitive

Negatives:

  • Collar guard unnecessary / fussy
  • Boxy fit - could be more ergonomic
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Alison GoodmanComment